Backpacking to Thousand Island Lake in the Eastern Sierras
- Lillian Chiou
- Sep 29, 2020
- 7 min read
Updated: Mar 1
Hands down one of the most beautiful multi-day backpacking trips we've done.
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend." - Robert Louis Stevenson
Overview
Route: Thousand Island Lake via PCT/High Trail & River Trail
Area: Ansel Adams Wilderness
All Trail: AllTrails
Distance: 34 miles (clocked by Strava) / 16.6 miles out and back PCT route
Elevation: +2,470 ft / -2,503 ft Highest Elevation: 9,996 ft
Route Type: Loop
Difficulty: Hard
Best for: Multi-day backpacking
Tails of the Trail
Paws Up Rating: 🐾 🐾 🐾 🐾 (4/4)
Hiking Level: Hard
Feedback: Dogs are permitted on leash in Ansel Adams Wilderness. I let Luna off leash because she sticks to my heels. I kept Gaby on leash for the most part since he loves chasing after squirrels. This is the wilderness after all, and it's important to keep the paws on the trail. We probably saw 3 dogs the entire weekend.
Water Source: There are streams, creeks, rivers, and lakes all along the way.
Things to Note: As beautiful as this trail is, please make sure your dog has the experience and fitness level to cover such a distance before taking him/her on this trip. 11 miles a day for 3 days straight was a lot for Gaby. I was surprised there weren't more dogs on the trail, I think it was due to the distance. Terrain wise on trail, there wasn't anything very technical to worry about. If you plan on scrambling on some of the mountains or going off trail for vantage points as we did, there is definitely sharper rock that you'd need to watch your dog's paws on.
Trip Summary
Day 1: Agnew Meadows Trailhead to Thousand Island Lake via PCT/High Trail (~11 miles)
Day 2: Day hiking around Thousand Island Lake & Garnet Lake (~11 miles)
Day 3: Thousand Island lake to Agnew Meadows Trailhead via River Trail (~11 miles)
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Lunatic, Gaby, and I did this as a 3-day 2-night backpacking trip in late June. This is a beautiful trip through Ansel Adams Wilderness to Thousand Island Lake with many opportunities for day hiking nearby.
Getting There
The trail starts from Agnew Meadows Trailhead (TH). When we went however, the gate to the TH was closed and shuttle service was unavailable. This added an extra 3 miles each way via a concrete road which was unfortunate, but ultimately worth it! Plus, can't complain about the views of the Minarets along the way.
Need to Know Before You Go
A permit is required for any overnight trips in Ansel Adams Wilderness and a trail quota is in place. High Trail has a daily limit of 12 permits that can be reserved in advance along with 8 walk-in permits. Permits for High Trail and other Inyo National Forest trailheads can be reserved at recreation.gov.
Campfires are not allowed above 10,000 feet and in several other restricted areas due to wildfire danger.
While in the backcountry, food must be stored in approved bear-proof canisters. I always bring my bear spray especially when backpacking alone with my dogs.
Day 1: Thousand Island Lake via PCT/High Trail (~11 miles)
We decided to make this a loop hike, heading out on High Trail and heading back on River Trail. There are multiple routes that will take you to Thousand Island Lake, so definitely explore other options if you have more days to spare.
Going up High Trail was the perfect choice. The trail started almost immediately ascending on switchbacks, which was not fun given we got a late start around 2PM (6 hour drive from the Bay Area that morning + the extra 3 miles getting to the trailhead) and the sun was beating down. There were many snow run offs and little creeks along the way. It helped to soak my small lightweight REI towel in the water and wear on my head to cool myself down. Once the trail started leveling off, the sweeping views made it all worth it! There were multiple camping spots along the way that I definitely plan on heading back to in the future.
Side note/funny story: I actually dropped my phone somewhere along the hot and unshaded part of the trail, and backtracked/looked for it for about an hour.. before I found it just a few feet ahead of where I put down my backpack (🤦🏻♀️).
The rest of the trail took us through woods and meadows. Honestly, due to our late start, I was rushing to get to Thousand Island Lake by sunset to find a camp spot. I ran the last mile or so and didn't take in much of my surroundings. Just another reason to go back!
We made it in time, and the pinks and blues of the sunset welcomed us with open arms, and the panoramic views took our breath away. This is what the journey's all about!
We set up camp, refilled water, ate dinner, stargazed, went to bed, ready to wake up for sunrise the next morning.
Day 2: Thousand Island Lake to base of Banner Peak to Garnet Lake (~11 miles)
Gaby, Luna, and I woke up at 4:45AM and we headed out to find a vantage point to catch the sunrise. We found a little mountain that we could scramble up on not too far off the entrance to Thousand Island Lake. Gaby is not a mountain goat like Luna, so he stayed on the trail and kept an eye on us from down below.
After saying our sun salutations, we went back to bed, until the sun heated us up awake just in time for breakfast. Though, I waited until the very last minute to leave the tent.. I mean, how could anyone bear to leave this?!
Leave No Trace & Camping Etiquette
There are many campsites all around as this is a popular backpacking destination. I noticed many campers setting up tents on top of vegetation and right along the lake. As tempting as many spots look, please remember the Leave No Trace principle of camping on established and durable spots only and camping at least 200 feet away from lakes and streams.
One of the best parts about staying 2 nights, is the opportunity to enjoy the scenic rewards of the previous day and take time to explore surrounding gems. I wanted to get a closer look at Banner Peak (and hopefully summit it one day), so we headed off in that direction.
It was fun to explore a whole side of Thousand Island Lake, say hi to other backpackers, and check out other campsites further down from where we set up. On our way back, we stopped for lunch by a section of the lake that had a nice little shore to hang out at.
We then started heading out to Garnet Lake via John Muir Trail (JMT). The trail was moderate in difficulty level, but easy enough to follow. I was lucky and was only carrying a daypack.
Eventually, after a small series of switchbacks, Garnet Lake makes a majestic appearance.
You can go even further along JMT to visit Ediza Lake, but I wanted to make it back to camp for another sunset, so we are saving that for our next trip!
Day 3: Back to Agnew Meadows via River Trail (~11 miles)
After eating breakfast in our tent, we packed up, said farewell to Thousand Island Lake, and headed out via River Trail. Overall, the route back was a lot more pleasant/easy compared to High Trail since there was more shade, and not much of an incline until the last mile.
The worst part was the daunting 3 miles uphill the concrete road back to the parking lot due to the gate closure. I would have tried hitchhiking, but due to Covid-19 + 2 dogs, I doubt anyone would have wanted to pick us up.
Dog Safety Tip & Alert
I was afraid Gaby would get heat stroke during the last 3 mile stretch. There was barely any shade, and he was really slowing down. Make sure that you touch the ground with your hand to feel how hot it is - it was black concrete so it was piping hot. There was a tiny stream along the side of the road with mud, so I made sure the dogs walked in there as much as they could to protect and cool their paws. I poured the rest of my water on his head and body to keep his temperature down. Heat stroke can be deadly for dogs, so always keep your eye out for signs of heavy panting, drooling, warm to touch, etc.
I highly recommend squeezing in 2-3 more days to camp along PCT and explore and set up camp at other lakes. Overall this trip was epic, magical, and the ultimate fuel for the nature loving soul!
Happy Tails & Trails! 🐾
Wow, the shot before sunrise is so good.